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Archive for the ‘Destination Trails’ Category

Mama Don’t Take My Kodachrome Away

Monday, July 12th, 2010

On the edge of the Big Lonesome.

Tucked between the high country of the Paunsaugunt Plateau and the Big Lonesome known as Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is a small Utah State Park called Kodachrome Basin. It is a lovely little spot wrapped around a series of sandstone walls and spires, with trails that are perfect for a runner interested in a less ambitious effort, but who still wants a big payoff of fun and scenery.

The handful of trails in Kodachrome are generally quite short, but the Panorama section of the park is laced with enough trails to easily tally 8-10 miles over the course of an hour or two. There are no sustained climbs and the trail surface is so gentle that kicking off your shoes is viable even if you’re merely an opportunistic barefoot runner.

Where the Panorama Trail roams.

The sandstone is so soft in Kodachrome you can manipulate it by hand,
if you have the time and inclination.

A hoodoo about the size of an NFL lineman.

A section of super-smooth sandstone on the Panorama Trail.

Cool Cave.
I admit, it’s cool. But it’s not really a cave.

Knowledge

Elevation: 5,800 feet
Climate: arid and generally mild (though extreme cold or heat is not uncommon)
Vegetation: abundant sage, pinyon, juniper, and a wide variety of wildflowers and grasses
Critters: small lizards and mammals, and the predators they attract. Other than the possibly unpleasant encounter with a rattler or mountain lion, it’s all upside.
The Well-Beaten Path: Bryce Canyon National Park (about 20 minutes from Kodachrome)
Park Amenities: camping, 6 cabins and a small general store. The cabins have a small refrigerator and microwave, but not TVs or internet. You are also probably at least 20 miles from a reliable cellular signal. Nice.

Slideshow here.

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Posted in Destination Trails | 1 Comment »

Acadia National Park

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Maine is one of those places that remind you that life really isn’t that difficult. That it is full of beauty, adventure, and miles and miles of runnable trails. It is, after all, “the way life should be.” So it’s fitting that it is home to one of the most visually stimulating and trail-packed national parks that I’ve witnessed to date: Acadia. It’s a one stop shop for anyone looking for a lot of bang for your adventuresome buck.

The one-way Park Loop Road guides you easily around Mount Desert Island, with constant sweeping views of your surroundings as you climb higher up. Pull over, hike down to the cliff edge and take it in. If you’re daring, blaze your own trail down the rock faces and take in a view few others get. But, be careful!

There is so much to see and experience, you need much more than a day to do it, but if you’ve only got a few hours’ time, then I highly recommend stopping at the ranger’s office at the park entrance to map out your plan of attack. I spoke with a very informative ranger and she helped me pick out a system of trails that would give me the best views, the most challenge, and some good running.

Both times I’ve been to Acadia, I wanted to climb the Precipice Trail on Champlain Mountain (above), and both times it has been closed due to the returning of the endangered peregrine falcons (they nest along the trail). So if you’re there late spring through mid-August, be aware that you’ll likely miss out on this very popular and difficult climbing experience (1,000 feet of vertical up the east face of Champlain, glorious!).

The Run

I picked The Beehive to start so that I could get in some good climbing, hook up with the Gorham Mountain Trail that would then spill me out onto the Ocean Path where I could do some fast miles to end my adventure.

The entrance to the Beehive Trail is between the Entrance Fee Station on the Park Loop Road and Sand Beach, on the eastern shore of Mount Desert Island. The Beehive is rated as “strenuous” due to its plethora of steep grades, steady climbing, and the need for iron rungs on exposed ledges. While the Beehive falls just short of a mile (.8 to be precise), it climbs almost straight up 520 feet, so it’s a good warm-up.

Afraid of heights? This may not be the trail for you. I could feel vertigo creeping up at more than a few points during my climb. The trail is, more or less, carved into the side of The Beehive. What a rush! The rewards you get at various outcroppings along the way are more than enough to make up for the slight dizziness, though.

Descending down the backside of The Beehive you need to be careful and mindful of your footing as there are lots and lots of very large rocks (very boulder field-esque). Despite that, I was able to start doing some running finally.

I wasn’t sure where I was going, but I knew I could retrace my steps if needed (though I wasn’t too keen on the idea of going back down some of those rock faces!). Eventually I came to a fork, where I could venture on down to the Bowl or continue onward to the Gorham Mountain Trailhead (525 ft.).

Mmmm, trail. Blue blazes are your friend out here, so keep them in view; you may be surprised how easy it is to miss these things, and how faded and un-blue many of the blazes are from wear and tear. After standing in place, spinning around, and then squinting hoping to see something blue, I finally saw a faint strip of blue on a birch. The trail was very unclear here and well hidden by dead leaves and shrubs of sorts. A few wet spots along the way, and eventually I made it to the trailhead, and more climbing! You are taken along and through a stream going up the trail, so if it’s been a rainy season, your feet will get wet. This is still pretty steep, but incredibly scenic and a fast climb.

Gorham Mountain’s so-called false summit. Hang out and enjoy the views you are given here, it’s not too shabby: Otter Cliff, Otter Point, Baker Island, and the Cranberry Islands are all in clear view here. As you continue onward, the cairns will guide you along. These were better indicators of the trail than were the fading blue blazes. It’s a nice flat rock surface up here and perfect for picnicking, but is even better for running. Now you can let loose. Getting to the actual summit is fast from here and is marked by a wooden post at the highest point of the mountain. Only a few other hikers were up there, so it was very peaceful and the almost unreal blue of the sky and the sun lent itself to even more fantastic views. Make sure you have a camera with you, and maybe extra memory cards, too!

After I got my fair share of the view, I began the descent down the backside of Gorham Mountain, heading for the Ocean Path. Lots of big, smooth boulders along the way, and crevices you don’t want your foot getting stuck in.

I still managed a pretty good run here, and was excited to make it to the Park Loop Road. Crossing the Road, I hooked up with the Ocean Path.

It is 3 miles from Otter Cliff to Sand Beach. Heading north it is a smooth, slightly descending, crushed limestone trail. This is where the fast running is. Make sure to pull off the trail and hike down to Thunder Hole. If the tide is just right, you get the proper Thunder Hole experience, and maybe even a mid-run cool down when the waves splash up!

Making it back to Sand Beach parking lot, I rounded out my run by continuing down to the Beach and jumping into the Ocean.

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Degree of Difficulty

Technical: Moderate to Difficult on Beehive and Gorham Mountain, Easy on Ocean Path
Physical: Moderate to Difficult on Beehive and Gorham Mountain, Easy on Ocean Path
Total Distance: 5.6 miles
Total Ascent: 1,045
Total Descent: 1,045

The Basics

While Acadia is not the most easily accessible National Park, the three hour drive up to Mount Desert Island from Portland is always worth it. Bring plenty of water, food, a camera and your long-run legs. You’re going to need them!

May through August, the sun is burnin’, burnin’, burnin’ so dress accordingly. In the fall, the breezes off the Atlantic can cut through to the bone. If you are planning a visit from out of town, I find flying into Manchester, NH to be the most convenient, and then driving up to Acadia via 95 then U.S. 1A.

Of course, any trip to Maine begs for a stay in Portland. But if you’re looking for something a little more quaint that can cater to the most touristy of tourists, plan to bunk up in Bar Harbor, Maine, the veritable gateway to Acadia. It’s got everything you need, from whoopee cushions to mountain outfitters, salt water taffy to fresh caught crab, cheap hotels to eclectic bed & breakfasts. The fact that it’s a stone’s throw from the park entrance is just an added bonus.

Google Map

Other Tips

Be sure to bring water and some form of calories with you on this run. Although this route isn’t especially long, it is deceptively hard, and will probably take much longer to complete than you might anticipate. Plus, who wants to rush through this kind of outing?

Sand Beach has water fountains, plenty of parking, bathrooms, and changing rooms, so it is a very convenient place to start and finish the day. But, if you’ve got some steam left, head on up the Park Loop Road to Jordan Pond and check out the 3.3 mile Jordan Pond Shore Trail. The Jordan Pond House is known for its popovers and blueberry jam…a perfect post-run nosh. The dining area has fantastic views of Jordan Pond and the Bubble Mountains (of course, the locals have a different name for the mountains due to their unique…shape).

I should also mention that Acadia is swarming with crushed stone carriage roads (57 miles of them!) that are perfect for flat and fast running, and a great way to explore the Park. The possibilities are endless!

Bar Harbor Nosh

Since I was so parched, and absolutely starving after my run/hike, I headed into Bar Harbor to eat somewhere new. I landed at Cottage Street Bakery & Deli, at 59 Cottage Street (two blocks west of Main Street), and treated myself to a fresh baked muffin and a huge salad. It’s a really sweet little spot; the indoor portion is very homey and cozy feeling, and you can smell all the deliciousness wafting out from the kitchen (they bake all their own stuff). The owner greeted me when I walked in, which I just love. It was still pretty nice out, so I sat outside on the covered patio to enjoy my lunch and people watch.

Afterwards, I decided I had to have some ice cream, so I moseyed over to Mount Desert Island Ice Cream at 7 Firefly Lane (one block west of Main Street), to try out their homemade ice cream. It’s a good thing online ordering of their specialty ice cream will be available soon…it was out of this world! I couldn’t resist.

By Paige

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Tags: acadia, acadia trail guide, Destination Trails
Posted in Acadia NP | 2 Comments »

Calaveras Big Trees

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

By Donald Buraglio

Each summer when our family makes a pilgrimage to the Sierras, I steal a morning to spend among the giant sequoias of Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

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The most popular routes from the main parking area are the North Grove and River Trails. The North Grove is a 1.5-mile stroll through the largest and most distinctive of the giant sequoias, and is the most heavily trafficked area of the park. The River Trail is the runner’s and hiker’s route, taking the path less traveled on more than 4 miles of mostly single track to the Stanislaus River.

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Before you branch off the North Grove trail, you pass the remains of the Discovery Tree, around which the entire park was eventually created. Pictures don’t really do justice to how large this downed tree is — unless there’s something in the frame for a point of reference…

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such as a 6′ 2″ man reaching up the outer section of the trunk, without even reaching the midway point of the 25′ diameter. It’s estimated that the tree was “only” 1,200 years old when it was killed, which is relatively young for a giant sequoia. Its outermost growth rings were still large, meaning it was still growing rapidly at the time of its demise.

From an educational standpoint, Big Trees Park serves a dual purpose: instilling a sense of admiration about the trees, and serving as a reminder of the cruel destruction that humans have foolishly (and repeatedly) inflicted upon them over the years — and the Discovery Tree is a perfect example.

The story goes like this: in 1852, a hunter tracking a wounded bear through the wilderness came upon this tree of monstrous proportions. Initially, nobody believed his story, until he coaxed a group of men into the woods to see for themselves. Less than one year later, the tree was stripped of its bark and felled by speculators. Since there were no saws large enough for the job, they drilled a series of auger holes through the trunk (visible on the top section in the picture above) for more than 3 weeks before the tree was finally defeated.

In ensuing years, the remaining stump was sanded flat and used for various commercial enterprises, from a dance floor to a bowling alley to a hotel – which gives you a sense of just how large it is. It’s an absolutely horrible legacy, but it has one silver lining: as visitor traffic increased to the area, early environmentalists (including John Muir) started a movement to preserve the Calaveras Grove, as it was called — which eventually led to the creation of Big Trees State Park, and legal protection of the surrounding forest.

So there’s your history lesson for the day. Meanwhile, back on the run…

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The River Trail only intersects the North Grove Trail for a few hundred yards, but there’s plenty to look at before you head away from the main loop. It’s difficult to emphasize just how small you feel running around the base of 30-foot diameter giants…

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whose limbs reach more than 300 feet in the air. To give another sense of scale, at a point 50 feet off the ground, some of these trunks are still more than 15 feet across. Did I mention that I felt very small?

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Outside the tourist loop, the River Trail branches away and gently climbs through some run of the mill tall trees…

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before cresting onto a road for a few hundred yards, where you enjoy great views of the Stanislaus National Forest. From this point, the trail will descend about 1,400′ over 2.75 miles towards the turnaround point at the river.

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Parts of the trail look like any other forest single track.

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But there are constant reminders that this is no ordinary forest.

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You develop an appreciation for how tricky it must have been to cut a trail through this area.

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And how difficult that trail must be to maintain from one season to the next as limbs and branches fall from winter snow or summer storms.

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Eventually the trail reaches the Stanislaus River, where you occasionally find some fishermen looking to score their evening’s dinner, but if you get there early enough, you pretty much have the place to yourself.

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Since you’re retracing your steps on the return trip, most of the 4 miles back to the North Grove are an uphill grind. It’s generally runable except for a few steep portions.

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And the scenery is just as pretty on the way back.

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When you start seeing the giant sequoias more frequently, you know you’re approaching the North Grove again.

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Another nice feature of the well-traveled visitor path in the North Grove is that it is wheelchair accessible, meaning the dirt is somewhat groomed inside the barricades. And since you’re getting close to your start/finish point in the main parking lot…

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it’s a nice place to kick off your shoes and cool down with a few minutes of barefoot running. If wandering among these trees under normal circumstances is humbling, doing so while barefoot makes you feel downright insignificant.

Honestly, it’s not such a bad feeling to take away from a nice long run — especially when it’s accompanied by a sense of awe and reverence at the wonders of this magnificent forest.

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If you want to experience California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains but avoid the crowds of the Tahoe or Yosemite areas, take a drive up Highway 4 through Calaveras and Alpine Counties. En route, you’ll pass through California’s historic Gold Country, and enough pastoral scenes to make you feel like you’re driving backwards in time. In the foothill town of Angels Camp (at the intersection of Highway 4 and Highway 49), you can stop and check out the setting for Mark Twain’s famous 1865 story The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County. Better yet, if you’re passing through town on the third weekend in May, bring your own frog and enter the annual contest.

Summertime temperatures typically top 100 degrees at Big Trees, and 90 degrees at Lake Alpine, so start your adventure early to beat the heat. Spring and fall are quite beautiful, but both of these areas are closed due to snowpack during the winter months.

Where is it in the World?

Calaveras Big Trees State Park is located 78 miles west of Stockton (and 26 west of Angels Camp), and you can continue up the road another 25 miles to Lake Alpine. Highway 4 runs east and west, and cuts through the Sierras north of Yosemite National Park, and south of Lake Tahoe. Bear Valley is a popular ski resort located about 3 miles east of Lake Alpine. Calaveras and Alpine Counties are two of the least populated counties in California, so you’ll rarely have to deal with heavy tourist traffic.

There are campgrounds both inside and outside Big Trees Park, and in several locations around the perimeter of Lake Alpine. Automobile entrance to Big Trees Park costs $7. In addition to camping, there are a few small towns between Angels Camp and Big Trees Park with lodging opportunities. The biggest (relative term) of these towns is Murphys, located 10 miles east of the park, with Avery and Arnold as smaller options before reaching Big Trees.

Area Map (new window)

Degree of Difficulty

Technical: Moderate
Physical: Moderate
Total Distance: 8.5 miles round trip from North Grove Parking lot to Stanislaus River and back, via River Trail. An additional 1.5-mile loop around the North Grove Trail can increase your distance before or after.
Total Ascent: approx. 1,700
Total Descent: approx. 1,700

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Tags: calaveras big trees, calaveras trail running
Posted in Calaveras Big Trees SP | No Comments »

Lake Tahoe / Flume

Saturday, August 1st, 2009

By Gretchen Brugman

Singletrack trails, stunning views, and endless options: Tahoe’s Flume Trail is my definition of a perfect day at the lake.

Every May, just before the start of the summer season, I make sure to get in at least one long training run on the Flume Trail. Located high on a ridge above the east shore of Lake Tahoe, its mellow terrain and beautiful views make it a popular ride for the mountain bike set. Springtime, however, and this trail becomes all mine.

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The Flume itself was a waterway built by loggers in the 1800’s and used to transport timber. Thus, the slope of the trail is fairly gentle, and to the runner it feels perfectly flat. Getting to the Flume Trail, however, definitely requires some ascending. There are a number of choices for exactly how to reach the Flume Trail, and I chose to start at the Spooner Summit trailhead of the Tahoe Rim Trail.

I arrived around 10:00 am with my usual Saturday running partner: my border collie, Cap. I didn’t feel the need for an early start, since the weather was still cool, and would likely be even cooler as I gained altitude.

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We headed north on the Rim Trail for just a short ways before taking a left onto the Spooner Lake Trail towards Spooner State Park. The lake came into view as we skirted the southern shore, and I drank water for the sole purpose of lightening the load on my bulging hydration pack. Cap was dismayed at being constrained by the leash, but it’s required within the park boundaries, and I knew it was the section of trail where we were most likely to encounter other people.

Along the lake, the aspens were just beginning to leaf out. As we merged onto the North Canyon Trail and began to climb, our surroundings took on a decidedly more wintry feel. The trail, which is actually more of a road at this point, wound through skeleton willows and across burnished, grassy meadows, still wet with frost in the shadows.

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After a mile or so on North Canyon, we reached the turn off for the Marlette Lake Trail. This is definitely the more preferable route to Marlette Lake, although North Canyon will get you to the same place. The Marlette trail is beautiful singletrack, with no mountain bikes allowed, while the alternate is basically a road. The only question was whether we would encounter much snow on the four mile climb. If we did, the road would make for much easier navigation. I hadn’t seen any signs of snow so far, so we happily jumped on the singletrack. Cap was especially pleased, as this was where I let him off the leash, and he bounded up the trail in eager exploration.

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The climb was pleasant but steady, as we gained about 1,200′ in 4 miles before descending down to Marlette Lake at 7,800′. We followed the forested trail along a creek serving as an inlet to the lake. It was too early for both mosquitoes and wildflowers, but Cap was glad the creek was still flowing and he drank fervently from the icy flow.

Upon arriving at Marlette Lake, I often find it’s a wonderful time for a swim. It’s an activity best reserved for August, however, and this day we took a left to follow the road along the east shore of the lake.

We’d only encountered a few small patches of snow so far, and I was surprised. I’d run this 1.5 mile stretch along Marlette Lake in full snow-cover many times, but today it was completely snow-free. Looking up at the mountains above, they, too looked quite clear, and I began to wonder what the conditions might be like on the Tahoe Rim Trail.

After almost 7 miles of running, we finally saw some other people on the trail. It just happened to be my friends and fellow runners, Sarah and Camille. They were running essentially the same route that I was, in reverse. The only difference was that I planned to run out and back, and they had set up a car shuttle for the one-way trip. We shared news of the trail conditions and let the dogs chase each other for a few minutes, before moving off in our respective directions.

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After a little rock climbing maneuver to skirt the edge of the lake, Cap and I finally found ourselves on the Flume Trail. After descending a couple of switchbacks, we burst out into the blinding sun of the west-facing slopes above Tahoe.

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Flat, easy running along a precipitous drop-off lead us for four miles of the best views in Tahoe. It felt like a completely different season on this side of the ridge, and I reveled in the sun’s warm caress and the sight of the first wildflowers erupting from cracks in the granite. We had the place all to ourselves, and I knew this marked the threshold to a summer full of running in the mountains.

Upon arriving at the junction with Tunnel Creek Road, there are several options. My initial plan had been to turn around and head back to Spooner for about 25 miles of running. After observing the lack of snow however, I decided that Cap and I should take this opportunity to check out trail conditions up on the Tahoe Rim Trail. We took a right at Tunnel Creek for about a half a mile to the Rim Trail, where we headed south.

Once on the Rim Trail, we began a steady climb towards the summit of Marlette Peak. There hadn’t been any water since Marlette Lake, so I shared mine with Cap. I could see my two liters were probably not going to be enough for us.

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When we began to encounter snow after less than two miles, I knew we were in for an adventure. Eventually we finally found ourselves on terrain of solid snow, and I decided to forget about the trail and just hike straight up. Fortunately, I had a map, and I spent the next hour or so alternately hiking and comparing the map to our surroundings. The snow also had the added benefit of providing an ample water source, and I kept scooping clean snow into my bladder to mix with the remaining water.

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I finally spotted Marlette Peak, and we made our way across the intervening ridge until we hit the trail. Our navigational adventure had definitely made the day longer than planned, but ultimately more fun. Tired, happy, and with our thirst for adventure satiated, we scampered down to the lake to rejoin the Marlette Lake trail and make the return trip to Spooner.

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Trailheads

Spooner Summit trailhead is located on Highway 50, 1/2 mile east of Lake Tahoe. Another place to begin the run is Spooner Lake State Park. For a $6 entrance fee, you’ll find bathrooms, running water, maps and a bike shop with gear, snacks and information. It is located on highway 28, 1/2 mile north of the junction with highway 50.

Map & Elevation Profile (new window)

Options

13.5 miles:
Start from Spooner Lake State Park. Run one-way on the Marlette Lake Trail and Flume Trail. Turn left at Tunnel Creek Road and run down to highway 28 where you can take a shuttle back to the park. Check here for current shuttle schedule and prices. Dufficulty: Moderate. The only climbing comes on the initial 4 mile climb.

22 or 25 miles:
Begin at either the State Park (for 22 miles) or the Spooner Summit trailhead (for 25 miles). Run out on the Marlette Lake Trail and Flume Trail to Tunnel Creek Road, and back on the same route. Difficulty: Hard. The climbing is the same as the 13.5 mile option. This route is just longer.

23-26 miles:
Begin at either trailhead. Run out on the Marlette Lake trail and Flume Trail to Tunnel Creek Road. Turn right on Tunnel Creek Road for .6 miles until you reach the junction with the Tahoe Rim Trail. Head south on the Tahoe Rim Trail for 5 miles until you reach the junction with Hobart Road. Here, you can either turn right on Hobart Road to return via the Marlette Lake Trail, or continue on the Tahoe Rim Trail to run over Snow Valley Peak and return to your trailhead. Difficulty: Extreme. If you follow the Rim Trail over both Marlette Peak and Snow Valley Peak, you’re in for a superb adventure!

Recommended Gear

Hydration:
This is probably the most important gear consideration. Runners should carry a minimum of 2 liters of water for the 13.5 mile route. For the 22 mile out-and-back, you can carry a filter (or your preferred water treatment) and refill water at Marlette Lake. If you’re heading up to the Rim Trail, be aware that there is no water available. Runners should carry at least 3 liters of water for this route, especially in the warm summer months.

Shoes:
You can get away with road shoes for the Marlette and Flume trails if you prefer, but trail shoes would not go amiss. The Rim Trail has some rocky, technical sections, and you’ll be happier in trail shoes.

Sun Protection:
The high-altitude sun is strong! Don’t forget sunscreen and your hat!

Clothing:
Even when it’s warm enough for shorts, I always take a windbreaker and dry shirt. It gets windy up on the ridge, and you never know when the weather might roll in.

Post Run

Don’t forget to ice down with a dip in the big lake! Sand Harbor and Hidden Beach, both on highway 28, offer easy options to reward yourself with a well-earned swim. The perfect end to the perfect run.

More Information

Current trail conditions, maps, and road information are available here.

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Tags: flume trail guide, tahoe trail running
Posted in Lake Tahoe | No Comments »

Rocky Mountain National Park (Lumpy Ridge)

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

By Nick Clark

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Not just for rock climbers. Not even close.

It was early June and word had it that the lower trails in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) were largely clear of snow: Finally, some one-on-one time with the beautifully maintained trails at Rocky, and some higher-elevation training to boot. Now the only decision to make was which section of the 265,000-acre park to visit. With over 350 miles of trail, the choices are endless, especially later in the summer when every inch of dirt is clear of its snowy winter coat.

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Knowing the run would have to be at a lower elevation to avoid post-holing through drifts, I decided on an old standby and favorite among local trail runners: the Lumpy Ridge Loop. For bonus mileage, I also decided to throw in a couple of spurs to check out a fast-running waterfall and some interesting rock formations.

The launching point for most visitors to RMNP is Estes Park, which can only be described as a tourist town, but charming nonetheless. Estes still has something of a frontier-town feel, and, tourist destination or not, one cannot help but be blown away by the massive mountain views. Even the drive to Estes, whichever way you come, is sensational.

After a quick email to the Fort Collins Trail Runner listserv the day before, I was able to round up four companions for the morning’s outing. From Fort Collins/Loveland, the route to Estes is simple: Follow the Big Thompson River up the canyon via Highway 34. For the Lumpy trailhead, which actually sits outside the park proper, you’ll need to make a right at the small town of Drake, driving past some great lower-elevation mountain trailheads until you hit the high plateau where you’ll be greeted by breathtaking views of the iconic Front Range 14er peaks of Longs and Meeker.

By the time we hit the high plateau, we had already gained close to 3,000 feet in elevation from our starting point 30 miles east at the base of the Front Range. The Lumpy Ridge/Twin Owls trailhead lies at 7,870 feet, and is located off Devil’s Gulch Road, half a mile east of McGregor Ranch and a few miles north of Estes Park. It offers a large paved parking lot and pit outhouses, but no water.

It was 8:00 in the morning and the lot was already half full; by the time we were done with our four-hour run the parking lot was at capacity. This is a very popular part of the park, partly because it offers free entry, but also because there are some wonderful spots to visit within two miles of the trailhead, and because Lumpy offers some of the best rock climbing in Colorado.

I’ve done this 11-mile loop in both directions and either way it’s a good 3,000 feet of climbing to get around. Today, we made the decision to head clockwise, taking in the faces of Lumpy Ridge first before heading around the backside.

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Heading clockwise, we hit the Black Canyon Trail for the first two to three miles of relatively flat, hard-packed trail. It was windy but sunny, as this part of the trail travels through an open area that is exposed to the elements. Twenty to 30 minutes into the run, after a turn onto the Dark Mountain Trail, we found ourselves under shadow of trees and beginning our first climb of the day, which took us to the high point of the loop at just over 9,000 feet and four miles into the run.

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Making a right (east) at the intersection with the Cow Creek Trail, there is a sharp drop off and fun freewheeling down tight switchbacks. Before we knew it, we were out of the trees running through beautiful meadows and basking in the early morning Colorado sun. Mountain flowers were just blooming and the mountain scenes were close to perfect.

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At mile six, we came to an intersection with the Bridal Veil Falls Trail and made a left for the one-mile, somewhat-scrambly pitch to one of the parks many, many waterfalls.

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After a quick pit-stop at the falls, we turned around and made our way back to the task at hand. To complete the Lumpy loop, we made a right at the Gem Lake Trail and hunkered down for the two-mile, 1,500-foot climb.

Our second extra-credit spur arrived near the top of the climb, with another short one-mile side trip to check out what is known as Balanced Rock. The name pretty much sums up what we saw.

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Once back on the loop we continued up for another mile before reaching the scenic Gem Lake clearing. Gem Lake is small — Gem Pond would be a more apt name — but beautiful with some wonderful rock formations on one side and a sandy beach on the other. From here, it was a 1.7-mile, 1,000-foot drop back to the parking lot.

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We had saved the best for last, as the views of Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes on the way down are, quite simply, out of this world. From the higher elevations, the vistas of Longs and the other high peaks of the park are massive.

As we continued to descend, a number of fantastic clearings opened up, offering more views of the mountains with Lake Estes and Estes Park in the foreground. Given the sunny day, this section’s proximity to the parking lot, and the stunning views, it was no great surprise to be dealing with significant foot traffic.

Once down, we had logged close to 16 miles and 3,000 feet of climbing. We wanted 20 miles on the day, so turned around and climbed back to Gem Lake and beyond, before turning around and heading back down for a total of 20 miles and 4,500 feet of climbing. Phew! A great morning with stunning views on sweet singletrack, and the first high-altitude workout of the summer.

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Where is it in the World?

Lumpy Ridge is located just north of Estes Park, Colorado in the northeast section of Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). The trails wind in and out of RMNP and are within an hour of the Front Range towns of Fort Collins, Loveland, Longmont and Denver. Estes offers any amenities a runner might need, but gets busy — very busy — in the summer season. Pick a sunny day to run Lumpy and you’ll be dealing with crowds anywhere within two miles of the main trailhead. Beyond the two-mile radius, you won’t see too many people.

Coming from Fort Collins/Loveland, take Highway 34 west (accessible from I-25) to Drake. Make a right on County Road 43, heading towards Glen Haven. Continue through the very small town of Glen Haven and continue on Devil’s Gulch Road until you see the sign for the Lumpy trailhead to the north.

From Estes Park drive north on McGregor Avenue, accessed from Highway 34 just west of the Stanley Hotel (Steven King’s inspiration for The Shining). After approximately one mile heading north, McGregor Avenue veers east and becomes Devils Gulch Road; continue east past McGregor Ranch, after which you will soon see a sign for the trailhead road.

From Denver, take Highway 36 all the way northwest to Estes and follow directions above. Entry is free.

Map

Elevation Profile

Degree of Difficulty

Technical: Moderate
Physical: Moderate
Total Distance: 11-16 miles
Total Ascent: 2,500 – 3,500
Total Descent: 2,900 – 3,500

What to Expect

The loop is 100% singletrack with two significant climbs of between 1,000 and 1,500 feet. You’ll run on a mix of terrain from smooth hardpack to rocky, rooty, technical singletrack, to pine-blanketed wooded trail. The loop runs through forest, meadows and large open spaces. The grade on the climbs can be very steep in places.

The trailhead is at just under 8,000 feet and the loop climbs above 9,000 feet, so be prepared for colder temperatures if the sun is obscured. The Colorado sun can be deceptively hot, so be sure to cover up or lather up.

***

Tags: estes park trail running, lumpy ridge trail, rocky mountain national park trail running
Posted in Rocky Mountain NP | No Comments »

Natural Bridges National Monument (Loop Trail)

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

By Stacy

En Route

Summertime visits to southern Utah’s national parks can be a bit dicey. The crowds get big and the temps get high. The worst of both worlds. Spring is also a very popular time to visit the region, but you don’t have to head for the deep backcountry to find solitude or the mountains to find cool temps. All that’s really required for the perfect day is simply to avoid the most blatantly front-country spots. Yes, I’m talking about you, Arches.

An excellent option for a springtime visit to canyon country is Natural Bridges National Monument. NBNM is remote, but easy to find and navigate. It’s fair to say it is a little less achingly beautiful than Arches, but that isn’t to say its location on the overwhelming Cedar Mesa isn’t stunning. Another way to look at NBNM is that it is one of the easiest, safest ways to sample the hardcore backcountry of the Colorado Plateau, a ready-made opportunity to ponder The Aron Ralston Experience without laying it all on the line.

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On the Trail

The only trail running route of consequence at Natural Bridges is the 8.6-mile Loop Trail. I elect to start from the Sipapu Bridge trailhead and proceed counterclockwise. This means that my run begins with a short, chutes-and-ladders (really) descent from the rim of White Canyon to its floor. For a minute, the trail passes along a narrow shelf between the overhanging cliff wall and a stand of ponderosa, then wiggles its way to the canyon floor, touching bottom beneath Sipapu Bridge. Cool.

From there, the trail takes a hard left and begins meandering along its prescribed course between the canyon walls. For the remainder of my time in the canyon I have complete solitude except for a few hikers near each of the remaining two natural bridges — Kachina and Owachomo. The shadows thrown by the cliff walls gradually recede and the temperature slowly climbs, so that by the time I climb out of the canyon and cross the mesa back to the Sipapu trailhead, I’m reminded how great it is to be here in March instead of mid-summer.

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Where is it in the World?

Natural Bridges is located in the high desert canyon country of San Juan County Utah. It shares its neighborhood with Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley to the south, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (Lake Powell) to the west, and Manti-La Sal National Forest to the north and east. Population in the region is, uh, sparse. Less than 15,000 people make their home in San Juan County, which is almost exactly the same size as Massachusetts. What that means in real terms may not sink in until you visit.

Finding NBNM doesn’t require any special local knowledge or a four-wheel drive vehicle, just a willingness to drive. Directions to Natural Bridges from Blanding, Utah:

South on US 191 for 4.00 miles
West (right) on UT 95 for 30.2 miles
North (right) on UT 275 3.9 miles to Visitor Center

Entrance to the Monument requires a fee ($3/individual, $6/car) or a federal lands pass. A paved 9-mile scenic loop road follows the rim of White Canyon from the visitor center. Trailheads and overlooks are located at regular intervals along this road. You can plug into the Loop Trail from the trailhead of any of the three natural bridges: Sipapu, Kachina, and Owachomo.

There is a decent selection of cheap motels (Comfort Inn, etc.) in Blanding. Or, for $10/night, you can camp at one of 13 improved sites at NBNM, which are doled out on a first-come, first-served basis. Dispersed, primitive camping is also an option outside the Monument on BLM-managed property (Comb Wash is a good option between Blanding and NBNM). If you go this route, be sure to observe minimum impact camping practices.

Degree of Difficulty

Technical: Moderate
Physical: Moderate
Total Distance: 8.6 miles
Total Ascent: 2,900
Total Descent: 2,900

Elevation Profile

What to Expect

The Loop Trail is 100% singletrack or slickrock through two discrete environments, one canyon and the other mesa. The canyon section of the loop follows the meandering White Canyon and is about 75% of the total distance. The trail here uses most of the width of the canyon floor as it winds from sandy wash to slickrock bench and back again. Much of the trail has good shade, either from overhanging rock walls or lush riparian vegetation (willows and cottonwood trees in the wash, PJ outside the wash). The trail passes beneath all three of the natural bridges. Another point of interest is Horsecollar Ruin, which is located just a bit down canyon from Sipapu Bridge. Small pools of standing water are common much of the year. Reaching the canyon floor requires a descent of about one mile and 500 vertical feet from the canyon rim. What goes down must come up.

The mesa section of the trail is a little over two miles in length. It consists of rolling terrain through a nice PJ (pinyon and juniper) forest with intermittent slickrock fields. Exposure on the trail, both in the canyon and on the mesa, is quite reasonable for this part of the country: the trail mostly steers clear of major drop-offs, and accidental detours into the canyons that feed into White Canyon are quite easily avoided. Still, bear in mind that NBNM sits within a huge, isolated wildland and should not be treated too casually.

Given an elevation of 6,000 feet, morning temperatures are quite pleasant even during the peak of summer, but the arid air heats quickly and high temps of 100° or more are common during the peak of summer. An early start is strongly advised during the summer. Weather during the shoulder seasons is incredible. NBNM’s roughly 100,000 annual visitors are thickest between Memorial and Labor Day and cluster at the scenic overlooks and along the short trail segments near the natural bridges themselves. Winter can be an amazing time to visit, but keep in mind that even the desert gets very cold at this elevation.

Interactive Map (new window)

Playlist to/from Trailhead

Spoon (Kill the Moonlight)
Destroyer (Trouble in Dreams)

***

Tags: natural bridges, natural bridges national monument, natural bridges trail running
Posted in Natural Bridges NM | No Comments »

Flagstaff (Kachina Trail)

Monday, December 1st, 2008

By Stacy

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Where the high desert meets the mountains in the Coconino National Forest. Close to Flagstaff. Far from easy.

En Route

By early November, shorter days and cooler mornings begin to push my runs from mountain trails to the desert. That’s not an entirely bad thing, since it saves a bit of time driving to trailheads and I love desert running anyway. Still, it is hard to not miss alpine mountain running during the snowy months.

Such was my state of mind when trying to decide where to head for this month’s feature trail. I knew I wanted to get in a gulp of mountain running before winter. Since Lisa, my wife, and Joia, our golden retriever, were coming along, I also wanted the destination to offer great off-run amenities and a casual, dog-friendly vibe. Ideally, within 300 miles or so of home. With those objectives established, I consulted the atlas and our destination became immediately obvious: Flagstaff.

Flagstaff is hip, but not painfully so. Smart, outdoorsy and friendly. A college town, a regional hub of industry and health care, and a point of departure for a really great, really big backcountry. That’s Flag.

The abundance of outdoor endurance athletes who call Flagstaff home also made reconnaissance a snap. After doing a little research, I shot an email to Neil Weintraub at NATRA (Northern Arizona Trail Runners Association) to narrow down the options. He was super helpful in recommending a couple of especially good trails among the many available around Flagstaff and invited me to join their Saturday morning group run.

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On the Trail

We spent Saturday doing a bit more trail reconnaissance and kicking around town. Sunday was overcast, a little hazy, chilly, and windy. Good running weather.

After driving to the trailhead and gearing up, I started up the Weatherford Trail. This connector to the Kachina Trail is the rugged two-track residue of an old road to the top of the San Francisco peaks. Within just a few minutes I was huffing and puffing the thin air as I made the steady climb from an altitude of about 8,250 feet to 9,000 over the course of about a mile and half.

At that point, I came to an intersection. Following directions meant a quick downhill/cross-slope romp until I saw another sign pointing me toward gorgeous singletrack: the Kachina Trail.

For about the next hour, I meandered up and down along the southern shoulder of the mountain, through dark groves of coniferous trees and the white-out of aspens, and across grassy meadows with wide views of the mountains above and Flagstaff below. Eventually, I emerged from the forest at the parking lot of the Arizona Snow Bowl, where I paused for a minute before returning in the direction from which I had come.

With most of the day’s climbing and photo stops behind me, I picked up the pace considerably on the return trip and made it a half-hour quicker than the run out. From there it was a rush to make hotel checkout, followed by a stop at the Downtown Diner to refuel.

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Where is it in the World?

The Kachina Trail is located in the Coconino National Forest. Access is from the Schultz Tank Trailhead 8.75 miles north of Flagstaff. Directions to the trailhead from the downtown intersection of Highways 66 and 180:

North on Humphreys Street (HWY 180) for 3.25 miles
East (right) on Schultz Pass Road (FR 420) for 0.75 miles until pavement ends
Proceed on unpaved Schultz Pass Road 4.75 miles to Schultz Tank TH

The unpaved portion of Schultz Pass Road is a bit rough, but passable in good weather for typical passenger cars.

Alternative access is from the south end of the Arizona Snow Bowl parking lot. From the Snow Bowl TH, you can run the same route I did in reverse, run just the Kachina Trail as a 9-10 mile out-and-back, or run 7.3 miles one-way with the aid of a shuttle. Most of the trail is in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness Area. There is an opportunity to self-register near the Snow Bowl TH, but no permit is required except during winter.

A number of other great routes can be accessed from the Schultz Tank and other nearby trailheads, including the trails that comprise NATRA’s annual Soustice Race, which is held each October.

Area Map (new window)

Local Knowledge: Northern Arizona Trail Runners Assocation

One of the better trail-specific clubs I’ve come across. Their site has a wealth of additional information, including a schedule of group runs.

Degree of Difficulty

Technical: Moderate-to-Hard
Physical: Hard
Total Distance: 14.6 miles
Total Ascent: 4,675
Total Descent: 4,675

What to Expect

Access to the Kachina Trail from Schultz Tank TH is by way of a section of the Weatherford Trail. The Weatherford connector is 100% rocky, rutted, double-track. From the trailhead, it is 1.7 miles and 850 vertical feet to the intersection taking you to the Kachina Trail proper. Tired legs and sketchy terrain are a recipe for a day-wrecking faceplant or twisted ankle on the return trip through this section, so be careful.

Once connected to the Kachina Trail, you will enjoy 100% singletrack with constant grade changes. There are numerous highly technical rock gardens to negotiate, which are a little taxing, but fun. Virtually the entire Kachina trail is at an altitude above 9,000 feet with a high of about 9,350. Unless you are a local or visiting from, say, Colorado, you will feel the altitude. Cool temps are the norm at this elevation year round, although an early start would be wise during the summer. This is a 3-season trail, although it enjoys a bit longer dry season due to its southern exposure.

Playlist to/from Trailhead

The National (Alligator)
Wolf Parade (Apologies to the Queen Mary)

***

Tags: flagstaff kachina trail, flagstaff trail running
Posted in Flagstaff | No Comments »

Zion NP (Wildcat Canyon)

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008

By Stacy

Classic western singletrack in the high backcountry of Zion National Park. A September afternoon. That’ll do.

En Route

It has to be at least 95°. But that’s in St. George. Climb to 7,000 feet or so and 15° will be scrubbed off the thermometer, 20° in the shade. I have the afternoon free and gear behind the seat of my truck, so I head toward Zion for a couple of solitary hours on the Wildcat Canyon Trail. For the first 20 minutes of the drive, it’s nothing but strip malls and light industrial parks against the backdrop of mesas and the Zion peaks. Then I leave La Verkin and the ugly-to-beauty ratio improves.

Instead of following the RVs to Springdale, I turn north when I get to Kolob Reservoir Road at the east end of Virgin. I’ve gained almost 1,000 feet of elevation already, but the desert is still sizzling hot. After a few miles, the road turns up in earnest. I’m driving roughly along the western boundary of the park now. The views are big and the vegetation changes by the minute, from cactus to pj to ponderosa. 20 minutes and 3,500 vertical feet after leaving Virgin, I pull into the Wildcat trailhead. There are 6-8 cars in the lot, but I probably won’t see anybody (the trailhead also serves as the launching pad for canyon junkies hiking the popular Subway).

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On the Trail

To run the Wildcat Canyon Trail is to experience a very different side of Zion National Park from the classic canyon trips through the Narrows or Subway. Wildcat isn’t about slickrock walls rising hundreds of feet above the canyon floor. Rather, Wildcat’s appeal is the subtle pleasure of classic western singletrack akin to Flagstaff or Durango. I like to think of it as the thinking runner’s Zion.

Wildcat is one of a series of trail links that can be combined as a 50-mile “Zion Traverse.” Each link has its own (terrific) personality and breaks into nice-size chunks of either out-and-back or shuttle-assisted runs of about 10-25 miles. As far as I can tell, the number of ultra runners to do the full traverse is so far relatively small, an oversight that will no doubt be corrected in time. (Go here for a fine account of the whole enchilada, as run by Jared Campbell and Karl Meltzer.)

On the menu today is the Wildcat proper: roughly 11.5 miles out and back from the trailhead to the intersection with the West Rim Trail. This stretch has plenty of shade and interesting terrain. “Just enough” climbing and technical challenge, and occasional exposure to gorgeous views of the canyon country below. As I gear up and head out, I notice the temp is now merely warm and there’s still not a cloud in the sky. Perfect.

Calling it the Wildcat Canyon Trail is somewhat misleading, since the trail doesn’t follow the bottom of a canyon at all. Rather, it meanders up and down through groves of ponderosa and across grassy meadows before it finds a bench above Wildcat Canyon, which it follows until it wraps around to the other side of the drainage and connects with the West Rim Trail.

Each time I am ready for a change of scenery or grade, the trail accommodates. As predicted, I see just one man and his small daughter in the couple of hours I’m on the trail. I climb the last rise and cruise in to the trailhead, tired and happy. I catch myself grinning even though no one is around.

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Where is it in the World?

The Wildcat Canyon Trail is located in the high-elevation backcountry of Zion National Park known as the Kolob Terrace. The trailhead is off Kolob Reservoir Road 15.8 miles north of Virgin, Utah. Bonus: no park entrance fee or trail permit required (for day use). The most reliable accommodations and pre- and post-run amenities can be found either in the Sedona-lite town of Springdale, at the mouth of Zion Canyon, or in St. George. The options in Springdale shrink considerably during the winter offseason. Go here to scout other Zion adventures.

What to Expect

100% singletrack. Rocky and (relatively short) sandy sections. Moderate grade changes. 1,700 feet total ascent, 1,700 descent. Thanks to abundant shade and high elevation, the trail stays reasonably cool during the summer compared with the desert below. However, some of the trail is exposed and temps can still get quite high. Sunshine on the Wildcat Canyon Trail is ample and atmosphere is not, so beware of sunburn. An early start is recommended during summer months. Spring and fall are ideal. Snowshoes are necessary during much of the winter. (At times during the winter, Kolob Reservoir Road may be closed three miles short of the Wildcat Traihead. At such times, access to the trail is by way of the Hop Valley/Wildcat Canyon Connector Trail.)

Degree of Difficulty: Intermediate
Interactive Map

Playlist To/From Trailhead

The Apples in Stereo (New Magnetic Wonder)
Menomena (Friend and Foe)

***

Tags: wildcat canyon trail, zion trail running
Posted in Zion NP | No Comments »