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Mama Don’t Take My Kodachrome Away

Monday, July 12th, 2010

On the edge of the Big Lonesome.

Tucked between the high country of the Paunsaugunt Plateau and the Big Lonesome known as Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is a small Utah State Park called Kodachrome Basin. It is a lovely little spot wrapped around a series of sandstone walls and spires, with trails that are perfect for a runner interested in a less ambitious effort, but who still wants a big payoff of fun and scenery.

The handful of trails in Kodachrome are generally quite short, but the Panorama section of the park is laced with enough trails to easily tally 8-10 miles over the course of an hour or two. There are no sustained climbs and the trail surface is so gentle that kicking off your shoes is viable even if you’re merely an opportunistic barefoot runner.

Where the Panorama Trail roams.

The sandstone is so soft in Kodachrome you can manipulate it by hand,
if you have the time and inclination.

A hoodoo about the size of an NFL lineman.

A section of super-smooth sandstone on the Panorama Trail.

Cool Cave.
I admit, it’s cool. But it’s not really a cave.

Knowledge

Elevation: 5,800 feet
Climate: arid and generally mild (though extreme cold or heat is not uncommon)
Vegetation: abundant sage, pinyon, juniper, and a wide variety of wildflowers and grasses
Critters: small lizards and mammals, and the predators they attract. Other than the possibly unpleasant encounter with a rattler or mountain lion, it’s all upside.
The Well-Beaten Path: Bryce Canyon National Park (about 20 minutes from Kodachrome)
Park Amenities: camping, 6 cabins and a small general store. The cabins have a small refrigerator and microwave, but not TVs or internet. You are also probably at least 20 miles from a reliable cellular signal. Nice.

Slideshow here.

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The Adventures of Jonny Cuesta

Monday, April 26th, 2010

St. George is ringed on its south and west edge by a semi-continuous cuesta – a geological feature with one very steep side (the scarp face) and a relatively gentle one (the dip slope). Given its proximity to my front door, a large portion of it is my test lab.

The dip slope looks a bit featureless from a distance; it is anything but. Besides modest tucks and folds, there are a variety of hanging canyons and bowls, as well as giant rock gardens.

In a few spots, the trail darts through keyholes between building-sized rocks.

A large hanging bowl just below ridgeline.

Frequently, the coyotes that roam the ridge provide quite a serenade in the last hour or two before dawn. This one seemed pretty happy with sunny and 70s. Or maybe I’m just projecting.

The, er, non-runnable side of the cuesta. Also known as the Zen Wall by local climbers.

Even a modest climb of 700 feet or so offers the reward of a pretty nice view.

The test lab is mostly desert singletrack, with plenty of slickrock mixed in.

A healthy dose of technical, punchy climbs (and drops) increases the fun factor. (Plus, it wouldn’t be much of a test lab without them.)

Indian Paintbrush. Must be springtime in the desert. (Bonus: in our game of cuesta, not-a-cuesta, the feature in the background is…not a cuesta.)

Some of the trail network is a wilderness runner’s carnival. Some of it is “just” garden variety buff desert singletrack. The mix is always nice, but downright sublime during the winter months when the big climbs just outside of town are snowed under.

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Calaveras Big Trees

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

By Donald Buraglio

Each summer when our family makes a pilgrimage to the Sierras, I steal a morning to spend among the giant sequoias of Calaveras Big Trees State Park.

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The most popular routes from the main parking area are the North Grove and River Trails. The North Grove is a 1.5-mile stroll through the largest and most distinctive of the giant sequoias, and is the most heavily trafficked area of the park. The River Trail is the runner’s and hiker’s route, taking the path less traveled on more than 4 miles of mostly single track to the Stanislaus River.

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Before you branch off the North Grove trail, you pass the remains of the Discovery Tree, around which the entire park was eventually created. Pictures don’t really do justice to how large this downed tree is — unless there’s something in the frame for a point of reference…

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such as a 6′ 2″ man reaching up the outer section of the trunk, without even reaching the midway point of the 25′ diameter. It’s estimated that the tree was “only” 1,200 years old when it was killed, which is relatively young for a giant sequoia. Its outermost growth rings were still large, meaning it was still growing rapidly at the time of its demise.

From an educational standpoint, Big Trees Park serves a dual purpose: instilling a sense of admiration about the trees, and serving as a reminder of the cruel destruction that humans have foolishly (and repeatedly) inflicted upon them over the years — and the Discovery Tree is a perfect example.

The story goes like this: in 1852, a hunter tracking a wounded bear through the wilderness came upon this tree of monstrous proportions. Initially, nobody believed his story, until he coaxed a group of men into the woods to see for themselves. Less than one year later, the tree was stripped of its bark and felled by speculators. Since there were no saws large enough for the job, they drilled a series of auger holes through the trunk (visible on the top section in the picture above) for more than 3 weeks before the tree was finally defeated.

In ensuing years, the remaining stump was sanded flat and used for various commercial enterprises, from a dance floor to a bowling alley to a hotel – which gives you a sense of just how large it is. It’s an absolutely horrible legacy, but it has one silver lining: as visitor traffic increased to the area, early environmentalists (including John Muir) started a movement to preserve the Calaveras Grove, as it was called — which eventually led to the creation of Big Trees State Park, and legal protection of the surrounding forest.

So there’s your history lesson for the day. Meanwhile, back on the run…

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The River Trail only intersects the North Grove Trail for a few hundred yards, but there’s plenty to look at before you head away from the main loop. It’s difficult to emphasize just how small you feel running around the base of 30-foot diameter giants…

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whose limbs reach more than 300 feet in the air. To give another sense of scale, at a point 50 feet off the ground, some of these trunks are still more than 15 feet across. Did I mention that I felt very small?

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Outside the tourist loop, the River Trail branches away and gently climbs through some run of the mill tall trees…

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before cresting onto a road for a few hundred yards, where you enjoy great views of the Stanislaus National Forest. From this point, the trail will descend about 1,400′ over 2.75 miles towards the turnaround point at the river.

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Parts of the trail look like any other forest single track.

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But there are constant reminders that this is no ordinary forest.

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You develop an appreciation for how tricky it must have been to cut a trail through this area.

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And how difficult that trail must be to maintain from one season to the next as limbs and branches fall from winter snow or summer storms.

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Eventually the trail reaches the Stanislaus River, where you occasionally find some fishermen looking to score their evening’s dinner, but if you get there early enough, you pretty much have the place to yourself.

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Since you’re retracing your steps on the return trip, most of the 4 miles back to the North Grove are an uphill grind. It’s generally runable except for a few steep portions.

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And the scenery is just as pretty on the way back.

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When you start seeing the giant sequoias more frequently, you know you’re approaching the North Grove again.

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Another nice feature of the well-traveled visitor path in the North Grove is that it is wheelchair accessible, meaning the dirt is somewhat groomed inside the barricades. And since you’re getting close to your start/finish point in the main parking lot…

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it’s a nice place to kick off your shoes and cool down with a few minutes of barefoot running. If wandering among these trees under normal circumstances is humbling, doing so while barefoot makes you feel downright insignificant.

Honestly, it’s not such a bad feeling to take away from a nice long run — especially when it’s accompanied by a sense of awe and reverence at the wonders of this magnificent forest.

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If you want to experience California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains but avoid the crowds of the Tahoe or Yosemite areas, take a drive up Highway 4 through Calaveras and Alpine Counties. En route, you’ll pass through California’s historic Gold Country, and enough pastoral scenes to make you feel like you’re driving backwards in time. In the foothill town of Angels Camp (at the intersection of Highway 4 and Highway 49), you can stop and check out the setting for Mark Twain’s famous 1865 story The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County. Better yet, if you’re passing through town on the third weekend in May, bring your own frog and enter the annual contest.

Summertime temperatures typically top 100 degrees at Big Trees, and 90 degrees at Lake Alpine, so start your adventure early to beat the heat. Spring and fall are quite beautiful, but both of these areas are closed due to snowpack during the winter months.

Where is it in the World?

Calaveras Big Trees State Park is located 78 miles west of Stockton (and 26 west of Angels Camp), and you can continue up the road another 25 miles to Lake Alpine. Highway 4 runs east and west, and cuts through the Sierras north of Yosemite National Park, and south of Lake Tahoe. Bear Valley is a popular ski resort located about 3 miles east of Lake Alpine. Calaveras and Alpine Counties are two of the least populated counties in California, so you’ll rarely have to deal with heavy tourist traffic.

There are campgrounds both inside and outside Big Trees Park, and in several locations around the perimeter of Lake Alpine. Automobile entrance to Big Trees Park costs $7. In addition to camping, there are a few small towns between Angels Camp and Big Trees Park with lodging opportunities. The biggest (relative term) of these towns is Murphys, located 10 miles east of the park, with Avery and Arnold as smaller options before reaching Big Trees.

Area Map (new window)

Degree of Difficulty

  • Technical: Moderate
  • Physical: Moderate
  • Total Distance: 8.5 miles round trip from North Grove Parking lot to Stanislaus River and back, via River Trail. An additional 1.5-mile loop around the North Grove Trail can increase your distance before or after.
  • Total Ascent: approx. 1,700
  • Total Descent: approx. 1,700

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Lake Tahoe / Flume

Saturday, August 1st, 2009

By Gretchen Brugman

Singletrack trails, stunning views, and endless options: Tahoe’s Flume Trail is my definition of a perfect day at the lake.

Every May, just before the start of the summer season, I make sure to get in at least one long training run on the Flume Trail. Located high on a ridge above the east shore of Lake Tahoe, its mellow terrain and beautiful views make it a popular ride for the mountain bike set. Springtime, however, and this trail becomes all mine.

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The Flume itself was a waterway built by loggers in the 1800′s and used to transport timber. Thus, the slope of the trail is fairly gentle, and to the runner it feels perfectly flat. Getting to the Flume Trail, however, definitely requires some ascending. There are a number of choices for exactly how to reach the Flume Trail, and I chose to start at the Spooner Summit trailhead of the Tahoe Rim Trail.

I arrived around 10:00 am with my usual Saturday running partner: my border collie, Cap. I didn’t feel the need for an early start, since the weather was still cool, and would likely be even cooler as I gained altitude.

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We headed north on the Rim Trail for just a short ways before taking a left onto the Spooner Lake Trail towards Spooner State Park. The lake came into view as we skirted the southern shore, and I drank water for the sole purpose of lightening the load on my bulging hydration pack. Cap was dismayed at being constrained by the leash, but it’s required within the park boundaries, and I knew it was the section of trail where we were most likely to encounter other people.

Along the lake, the aspens were just beginning to leaf out. As we merged onto the North Canyon Trail and began to climb, our surroundings took on a decidedly more wintry feel. The trail, which is actually more of a road at this point, wound through skeleton willows and across burnished, grassy meadows, still wet with frost in the shadows.

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After a mile or so on North Canyon, we reached the turn off for the Marlette Lake Trail. This is definitely the more preferable route to Marlette Lake, although North Canyon will get you to the same place. The Marlette trail is beautiful singletrack, with no mountain bikes allowed, while the alternate is basically a road. The only question was whether we would encounter much snow on the four mile climb. If we did, the road would make for much easier navigation. I hadn’t seen any signs of snow so far, so we happily jumped on the singletrack. Cap was especially pleased, as this was where I let him off the leash, and he bounded up the trail in eager exploration.

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The climb was pleasant but steady, as we gained about 1,200′ in 4 miles before descending down to Marlette Lake at 7,800′. We followed the forested trail along a creek serving as an inlet to the lake. It was too early for both mosquitoes and wildflowers, but Cap was glad the creek was still flowing and he drank fervently from the icy flow.

Upon arriving at Marlette Lake, I often find it’s a wonderful time for a swim. It’s an activity best reserved for August, however, and this day we took a left to follow the road along the east shore of the lake.

We’d only encountered a few small patches of snow so far, and I was surprised. I’d run this 1.5 mile stretch along Marlette Lake in full snow-cover many times, but today it was completely snow-free. Looking up at the mountains above, they, too looked quite clear, and I began to wonder what the conditions might be like on the Tahoe Rim Trail.

After almost 7 miles of running, we finally saw some other people on the trail. It just happened to be my friends and fellow runners, Sarah and Camille. They were running essentially the same route that I was, in reverse. The only difference was that I planned to run out and back, and they had set up a car shuttle for the one-way trip. We shared news of the trail conditions and let the dogs chase each other for a few minutes, before moving off in our respective directions.

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After a little rock climbing maneuver to skirt the edge of the lake, Cap and I finally found ourselves on the Flume Trail. After descending a couple of switchbacks, we burst out into the blinding sun of the west-facing slopes above Tahoe.

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Flat, easy running along a precipitous drop-off lead us for four miles of the best views in Tahoe. It felt like a completely different season on this side of the ridge, and I reveled in the sun’s warm caress and the sight of the first wildflowers erupting from cracks in the granite. We had the place all to ourselves, and I knew this marked the threshold to a summer full of running in the mountains.

Upon arriving at the junction with Tunnel Creek Road, there are several options. My initial plan had been to turn around and head back to Spooner for about 25 miles of running. After observing the lack of snow however, I decided that Cap and I should take this opportunity to check out trail conditions up on the Tahoe Rim Trail. We took a right at Tunnel Creek for about a half a mile to the Rim Trail, where we headed south.

Once on the Rim Trail, we began a steady climb towards the summit of Marlette Peak. There hadn’t been any water since Marlette Lake, so I shared mine with Cap. I could see my two liters were probably not going to be enough for us.

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When we began to encounter snow after less than two miles, I knew we were in for an adventure. Eventually we finally found ourselves on terrain of solid snow, and I decided to forget about the trail and just hike straight up. Fortunately, I had a map, and I spent the next hour or so alternately hiking and comparing the map to our surroundings. The snow also had the added benefit of providing an ample water source, and I kept scooping clean snow into my bladder to mix with the remaining water.

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I finally spotted Marlette Peak, and we made our way across the intervening ridge until we hit the trail. Our navigational adventure had definitely made the day longer than planned, but ultimately more fun. Tired, happy, and with our thirst for adventure satiated, we scampered down to the lake to rejoin the Marlette Lake trail and make the return trip to Spooner.

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Trailheads

Spooner Summit trailhead is located on Highway 50, 1/2 mile east of Lake Tahoe. Another place to begin the run is Spooner Lake State Park. For a $6 entrance fee, you’ll find bathrooms, running water, maps and a bike shop with gear, snacks and information. It is located on highway 28, 1/2 mile north of the junction with highway 50.

Map & Elevation Profile (new window)

Options

13.5 miles:
Start from Spooner Lake State Park. Run one-way on the Marlette Lake Trail and Flume Trail. Turn left at Tunnel Creek Road and run down to highway 28 where you can take a shuttle back to the park. Check here for current shuttle schedule and prices. Dufficulty: Moderate. The only climbing comes on the initial 4 mile climb.

22 or 25 miles:
Begin at either the State Park (for 22 miles) or the Spooner Summit trailhead (for 25 miles). Run out on the Marlette Lake Trail and Flume Trail to Tunnel Creek Road, and back on the same route. Difficulty: Hard. The climbing is the same as the 13.5 mile option. This route is just longer.

23-26 miles:
Begin at either trailhead. Run out on the Marlette Lake trail and Flume Trail to Tunnel Creek Road. Turn right on Tunnel Creek Road for .6 miles until you reach the junction with the Tahoe Rim Trail. Head south on the Tahoe Rim Trail for 5 miles until you reach the junction with Hobart Road. Here, you can either turn right on Hobart Road to return via the Marlette Lake Trail, or continue on the Tahoe Rim Trail to run over Snow Valley Peak and return to your trailhead. Difficulty: Extreme. If you follow the Rim Trail over both Marlette Peak and Snow Valley Peak, you’re in for a superb adventure!

Recommended Gear

Hydration:
This is probably the most important gear consideration. Runners should carry a minimum of 2 liters of water for the 13.5 mile route. For the 22 mile out-and-back, you can carry a filter (or your preferred water treatment) and refill water at Marlette Lake. If you’re heading up to the Rim Trail, be aware that there is no water available. Runners should carry at least 3 liters of water for this route, especially in the warm summer months.

Shoes:
You can get away with road shoes for the Marlette and Flume trails if you prefer, but trail shoes would not go amiss. The Rim Trail has some rocky, technical sections, and you’ll be happier in trail shoes.

Sun Protection:
The high-altitude sun is strong! Don’t forget sunscreen and your hat!

Clothing:
Even when it’s warm enough for shorts, I always take a windbreaker and dry shirt. It gets windy up on the ridge, and you never know when the weather might roll in.

Post Run

Don’t forget to ice down with a dip in the big lake! Sand Harbor and Hidden Beach, both on highway 28, offer easy options to reward yourself with a well-earned swim. The perfect end to the perfect run.

More Information

Current trail conditions, maps, and road information are available here.

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Rocky Mountain National Park (Lumpy Ridge)

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

By Nick Clark

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Not just for rock climbers. Not even close.

It was early June and word had it that the lower trails in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) were largely clear of snow: Finally, some one-on-one time with the beautifully maintained trails at Rocky, and some higher-elevation training to boot. Now the only decision to make was which section of the 265,000-acre park to visit. With over 350 miles of trail, the choices are endless, especially later in the summer when every inch of dirt is clear of its snowy winter coat.

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Knowing the run would have to be at a lower elevation to avoid post-holing through drifts, I decided on an old standby and favorite among local trail runners: the Lumpy Ridge Loop. For bonus mileage, I also decided to throw in a couple of spurs to check out a fast-running waterfall and some interesting rock formations.

The launching point for most visitors to RMNP is Estes Park, which can only be described as a tourist town, but charming nonetheless. Estes still has something of a frontier-town feel, and, tourist destination or not, one cannot help but be blown away by the massive mountain views. Even the drive to Estes, whichever way you come, is sensational.

After a quick email to the Fort Collins Trail Runner listserv the day before, I was able to round up four companions for the morning’s outing. From Fort Collins/Loveland, the route to Estes is simple: Follow the Big Thompson River up the canyon via Highway 34. For the Lumpy trailhead, which actually sits outside the park proper, you’ll need to make a right at the small town of Drake, driving past some great lower-elevation mountain trailheads until you hit the high plateau where you’ll be greeted by breathtaking views of the iconic Front Range 14er peaks of Longs and Meeker.

By the time we hit the high plateau, we had already gained close to 3,000 feet in elevation from our starting point 30 miles east at the base of the Front Range. The Lumpy Ridge/Twin Owls trailhead lies at 7,870 feet, and is located off Devil’s Gulch Road, half a mile east of McGregor Ranch and a few miles north of Estes Park. It offers a large paved parking lot and pit outhouses, but no water.

It was 8:00 in the morning and the lot was already half full; by the time we were done with our four-hour run the parking lot was at capacity. This is a very popular part of the park, partly because it offers free entry, but also because there are some wonderful spots to visit within two miles of the trailhead, and because Lumpy offers some of the best rock climbing in Colorado.

I’ve done this 11-mile loop in both directions and either way it’s a good 3,000 feet of climbing to get around. Today, we made the decision to head clockwise, taking in the faces of Lumpy Ridge first before heading around the backside.

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Heading clockwise, we hit the Black Canyon Trail for the first two to three miles of relatively flat, hard-packed trail. It was windy but sunny, as this part of the trail travels through an open area that is exposed to the elements. Twenty to 30 minutes into the run, after a turn onto the Dark Mountain Trail, we found ourselves under shadow of trees and beginning our first climb of the day, which took us to the high point of the loop at just over 9,000 feet and four miles into the run.

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Making a right (east) at the intersection with the Cow Creek Trail, there is a sharp drop off and fun freewheeling down tight switchbacks. Before we knew it, we were out of the trees running through beautiful meadows and basking in the early morning Colorado sun. Mountain flowers were just blooming and the mountain scenes were close to perfect.

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At mile six, we came to an intersection with the Bridal Veil Falls Trail and made a left for the one-mile, somewhat-scrambly pitch to one of the parks many, many waterfalls.

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After a quick pit-stop at the falls, we turned around and made our way back to the task at hand. To complete the Lumpy loop, we made a right at the Gem Lake Trail and hunkered down for the two-mile, 1,500-foot climb.

Our second extra-credit spur arrived near the top of the climb, with another short one-mile side trip to check out what is known as Balanced Rock. The name pretty much sums up what we saw.

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Once back on the loop we continued up for another mile before reaching the scenic Gem Lake clearing. Gem Lake is small — Gem Pond would be a more apt name — but beautiful with some wonderful rock formations on one side and a sandy beach on the other. From here, it was a 1.7-mile, 1,000-foot drop back to the parking lot.

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We had saved the best for last, as the views of Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes on the way down are, quite simply, out of this world. From the higher elevations, the vistas of Longs and the other high peaks of the park are massive.

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As we continued to descend, a number of fantastic clearings opened up, offering more views of the mountains with Lake Estes and Estes Park in the foreground. Given the sunny day, this section’s proximity to the parking lot, and the stunning views, it was no great surprise to be dealing with significant foot traffic.

Once down, we had logged close to 16 miles and 3,000 feet of climbing. We wanted 20 miles on the day, so turned around and climbed back to Gem Lake and beyond, before turning around and heading back down for a total of 20 miles and 4,500 feet of climbing. Phew! A great morning with stunning views on sweet singletrack, and the first high-altitude workout of the summer.

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Where is it in the World?

Lumpy Ridge is located just north of Estes Park, Colorado in the northeast section of Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). The trails wind in and out of RMNP and are within an hour of the Front Range towns of Fort Collins, Loveland, Longmont and Denver. Estes offers any amenities a runner might need, but gets busy — very busy — in the summer season. Pick a sunny day to run Lumpy and you’ll be dealing with crowds anywhere within two miles of the main trailhead. Beyond the two-mile radius, you won’t see too many people.

Coming from Fort Collins/Loveland, take Highway 34 west (accessible from I-25) to Drake. Make a right on County Road 43, heading towards Glen Haven. Continue through the very small town of Glen Haven and continue on Devil’s Gulch Road until you see the sign for the Lumpy trailhead to the north.

From Estes Park drive north on McGregor Avenue, accessed from Highway 34 just west of the Stanley Hotel (Steven King’s inspiration for The Shining). After approximately one mile heading north, McGregor Avenue veers east and becomes Devils Gulch Road; continue east past McGregor Ranch, after which you will soon see a sign for the trailhead road.

From Denver, take Highway 36 all the way northwest to Estes and follow directions above. Entry is free.

Map

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Elevation Profile

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Degree of Difficulty

  • Technical: Moderate
  • Physical: Moderate
  • Total Distance: 11-16 miles
  • Total Ascent: 2,500 – 3,500
  • Total Descent: 2,900 – 3,500

What to Expect

The loop is 100% singletrack with two significant climbs of between 1,000 and 1,500 feet. You’ll run on a mix of terrain from smooth hardpack to rocky, rooty, technical singletrack, to pine-blanketed wooded trail. The loop runs through forest, meadows and large open spaces. The grade on the climbs can be very steep in places.

The trailhead is at just under 8,000 feet and the loop climbs above 9,000 feet, so be prepared for colder temperatures if the sun is obscured. The Colorado sun can be deceptively hot, so be sure to cover up or lather up.

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Honolulu

Monday, June 1st, 2009

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Destination Trail or City Guide?

Labels are unavoidable. We have to use them to make sense of the world around us. But we’re firm believers that labels should serve us, not the other way around. So, when a runner from Hawaii offered to contribute a feature, we quickly said, “Yes, please!” then realized we weren’t sure whether it would fit best within our Destination Trail category or with our City Guides. It didn’t take long to conclude it didn’t much matter. As long as we’ve provided a bit of information and encouragement, we’ve achieved our purpose.

So, yes, we realize that, for most people, Hawaii epitomizes “destination” and that there is much more to Hawaii than Oahu. But, since we decided to park this feature with our other city guides, we are sticking to two trail running options easily accessed from Honolulu. Branch out to other trail networks and islands, if you like. In fact, we encourage it. Now let’s get on with it.

City View

Waikiki

Many visitors to Hawaii never feel compelled to venture far from Waikiki. Given the number and density of its attractions, this is an entirely defensible attitude. Happily, the list of attractions close to the beach includes a serious trail running venue. How close? Less than 5 miles from your Waikiki hotel. How serious? Serious enough to host the legendary HURT 100 each January.

Odds are good that experiencing the HURT 100 trails in the Tantalus area will either tempt you to do the race proper or scare you straight. The one sure thing is that you will come away duly impressed by HURT 100 finishers.

Tantalus route options are many, but putting together your own “HURT 100 Sampler” may be especially appealing. One way to go is to take on the entire (modified) loop that comprises each 20-mile lap of the race, then ponder the implications of doing it 4 more times. Just remember, if you stare into the abyss long enough, it will stare back.

Another way to go is to work out a shuttle-assist or out-and-back of all or part of any one of the three trail legs that comprise the loop: Nature Center to Paradise (7.3 miles one-way), Paradise to Jackass Ginger (5.4 miles), or Jackass Ginger to Nature Center (7.3 miles). The race map and cue sheet available here from the HURT 100 race site (home page linked above) should provide all the recce you need to fine-tune your own adventure.

No matter what route you choose, you will be challenged by the steep, technical terrain, stimulated by up-close interaction with flora and fauna, and rewarded with amazing vistas of the city and ocean.

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North Shore

If you are inclined to stray a bit from Waikiki, the North Shore represents an easy way to scratch that itch. It’s only 35 miles away, but it feels much farther. Like Tantalus, the prime North Shore trail network is host to a HURT ultra, in this case the Peacock 54. Held in October, Peacock caps off a budget-friendly series of trail events organized by HURT each year.

Exposure is considerably greater for North Shore trail running than at Tantalus, due to the relative remoteness of the area and a greater diversity of trail user types, including jeepers and hunters. Tackling this area as a solo mainlander is not encouraged. Rather, you should contact HURT to see if someone from their tribe will be heading to the area while you’re in town. Here’s a visual taste of why it might be worth the extra bit of coordination.

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Lodging

Let’s stick with the theme of options, one no-brainer and another with just slightly more edge.

If you like the predictabilty of a well-known and respected hotel brand, the Hilton Hawaiian Village comes recommended as the cream of the Waikiki crop. It is a resort behemoth at 22 acres. Multiple towers housing a variety of accommodations. Multiple pools. Multiple on-site shops and restaurants. Something, in other words, for nearly everyone. A recent web search using dates wrapping around the Peacock 54 returned average rates of $188/night.

If your lodging preferences tilt more toward the boutique, consider the posh Halekulani or its slightly more affordable sister hotel, the Waikiki Parc. Both are still large, resort-style hotels, but are a bit more distinctive than the Waikiki super resorts. Our web search returned an average rate of $407/night for the Halekulani and $168/night for the Parc.

Hilton Hawaiian Village
2005 Kalia Road
Honolulu, Hawaii 96815
T: (808) 949-4321

Halekulani Hotel
2199 Kalia Road
Honolulu, Hawaii 96815
T: (808) 923-2311

Waikiki Parc Hotel
2233 Helumoa Road
Honolulu, Hawaii 96815
T: (808) 921-7272

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Devon Webb of the Hawaiian Ultra Running Team — June 2008 .

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New York City

Friday, May 1st, 2009

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The Problem

You are a trail runner in New York City. Maybe you live or work there. Maybe you’re visiting. Either way, you are smack in the middle of the most densely populated region in the United States. Being in New York has its obvious advantages, but, let’s face it, an abundance of wilderness isn’t among them. And, as a trail runner, you need a dose of wilderness. Frequently. This presents a significant challenge, which is no doubt further complicated by other factors: you probably only have a few hours to get away — not a whole weekend — and there’s a good chance you don’t have a car. Is there any hope? As a matter of fact, there is.

The Solution

South Mountain Reservation in Essex County, New Jersey, is a hilly, wooded, and scenic park over 6 miles in length and one mile in width that offers some of the best trail running in the region. If you’re up to it, you can run for literally hundreds of miles on excellent trails offering incredible scenery and plenty of challenge.

But what makes South Mountain truly remarkable is its location just 13 miles from Manhattan. Believe it or not, within an hour of leaving Penn Station you can be cruising pristine singletrack alongside rivers, lakes, and waterfalls, and bagging the occasional view of the Manhattan skyline or the local wildlife. In fact, the only way South Mountain won’t meet your expectations of a serious wilderness trail run is in its convenience to the city.

How to Get There

South Mountain Reservation is in the heart of North Jersey. It is bordered by Millburn, Short Hills, West Orange, South Orange and Maplewood, and is an easy drive from most areas within North Jersey. From Manhattan, there is a direct train that takes around 40 minutes and leaves at least every hour. Simply take the NJ Transit “midtown direct” train on the Morris line to the Millburn stop. When you disembark at Millburn, the park is literally across the street — due north — from the platform. Look for the Locust Grove parking area, which is across the street from the station inside the park. From there, you can access a number of trailheads.

Area Map (new window)

The Run

There are many amazing run options within South Mountain. A favorite loop starts from the Locust Grove parking area and follows the Rahway Trail out and the Lenape Trail back. This hilly, challenging loop has a little of everything, making it an excellent South Mountain Sampler.

The first few miles of the route are alongside a river and a series of small lakes. Eventually, you will climb and descend a steep ridge to a pristine waterfall that represents the halfway point of the run. From here, it’s a slight scramble uphill to a clearing, from which the trail continues to track winding cascades for another few miles. Eventually, the trail makes a steady climb to a lookout offering sweeping views of the neighboring towns and the Manhattan skyline in the distance. The loop is finished off with a steep descent to a grassy picnic area near the parking area where the route begins.

The Rahway Trail is marked with white markers and the Lenape with yellow — be sure to keep your eyes peeled for trail markers the entire time and bring a map, because it is very easy to go off course. In total, you’ll cover about 5.5-6 rewarding miles. Your mind and body will swear it was more.

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Après Run

If you have the time, Millburn offers everything you need to make a full day of your outing. There are a number of quaint shops sprinkled throughout downtown, and, being Jersey, there are plenty of great dining alternatives. Local favorites within walking distance of the train station include: Bagel Chateau, Millburn Diner, Millburn Deli, and La Strada.

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Lodging

The Hotel Roger Williams is an excellent place to stay in Midtown Manhattan. It is stylish and hip yet understated and unpretentious, which is a balance boutique hotels don’t always get right. Down bedding, plasma TV, Aveda bath products? Check, check, and check. Of course, the hotel also offers the standard array of personal and business services such as concierge, small meeting facilities, and laundry service. Another nice touch is the mezzanine lounge stocked with light fare and complimentary newspapers.

The hotel’s Murray Hill location is terrific in general and is particularly so for the visiting trail runner. Manhattan’s main attractions are all in close proximity and Penn Station is just a short half-mile walk away; from there it’s a quick ride to Millburn and the trails of South Mountain.

HRW

Hotel Roger Williams
131 Madison Ave
New York, NY  10016
t: (212) 448-7000

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Local knowledge thanks to John Otten — May 2009.

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Natural Bridges National Monument

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

By Stacy

Landing Photo

En Route

Summertime visits to southern Utah’s national parks can be a bit dicey. The crowds get big and the temps get high. The worst of both worlds. Spring is also a very popular time to visit the region, but you don’t have to head for the deep backcountry to find solitude or the mountains to find cool temps. All that’s really required for the perfect day is simply to avoid the most blatantly front-country spots. Yes, I’m talking about you, Arches.

An excellent option for a springtime visit to canyon country is Natural Bridges National Monument. NBNM is remote, but easy to find and navigate. It’s fair to say it is a little less achingly beautiful than Arches, but that isn’t to say its location on the overwhelming Cedar Mesa isn’t stunning. Another way to look at NBNM is that it is one of the easiest, safest ways to sample the hardcore backcountry of the Colorado Plateau, a ready-made opportunity to ponder The Aron Ralston Experience without laying it all on the line.

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On the Trail

The only trail running route of consequence at Natural Bridges is the 8.6-mile Loop Trail. I elect to start from the Sipapu Bridge trailhead and proceed counterclockwise. This means that my run begins with a short, chutes-and-ladders (really) descent from the rim of White Canyon to its floor. For a minute, the trail passes along a narrow shelf between the overhanging cliff wall and a stand of ponderosa, then wiggles its way to the canyon floor, touching bottom beneath Sipapu Bridge. Cool.

From there, the trail takes a hard left and begins meandering along its prescribed course between the canyon walls. For the remainder of my time in the canyon I have complete solitude except for a few hikers near each of the remaining two natural bridges — Kachina and Owachomo. The shadows thrown by the cliff walls gradually recede and the temperature slowly climbs, so that by the time I climb out of the canyon and cross the mesa back to the Sipapu trailhead, I’m reminded how great it is to be here in March instead of mid-summer.

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Where is it in the World?

Natural Bridges is located in the high desert canyon country of San Juan County Utah. It shares its neighborhood with Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley to the south, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (Lake Powell) to the west, and Manti-La Sal National Forest to the north and east. Population in the region is, uh, sparse. Less than 15,000 people make their home in San Juan County, which is almost exactly the same size as Massachusetts. What that means in real terms may not sink in until you visit.

Finding NBNM doesn’t require any special local knowledge or a four-wheel drive vehicle, just a willingness to drive. Directions to Natural Bridges from Blanding, Utah:

  • South on US 191 for 4.00 miles
  • West (right) on UT 95 for 30.2 miles
  • North (right) on UT 275 3.9 miles to Visitor Center

Entrance to the Monument requires a fee ($3/individual, $6/car) or a federal lands pass. A paved 9-mile scenic loop road follows the rim of White Canyon from the visitor center. Trailheads and overlooks are located at regular intervals along this road. You can plug into the Loop Trail from the trailhead of any of the three natural bridges: Sipapu, Kachina, and Owachomo.

There is a decent selection of cheap motels (Comfort Inn, etc.) in Blanding. Or, for $10/night, you can camp at one of 13 improved sites at NBNM, which are doled out on a first-come, first-served basis. Dispersed, primitive camping is also an option outside the Monument on BLM-managed property (Comb Wash is a good option between Blanding and NBNM). If you go this route, be sure to observe minimum impact camping practices.

Degree of Difficulty

  • Technical: Moderate
  • Physical: Moderate
  • Total Distance: 8.6 miles
  • Total Ascent: 2,900
  • Total Descent: 2,900

Elevation Profile

Elev Profile

What to Expect

The Loop Trail is 100% singletrack or slickrock through two discrete environments, one canyon and the other mesa. The canyon section of the loop follows the meandering White Canyon and is about 75% of the total distance. The trail here uses most of the width of the canyon floor as it winds from sandy wash to slickrock bench and back again. Much of the trail has good shade, either from overhanging rock walls or lush riparian vegetation (willows and cottonwood trees in the wash, PJ outside the wash). The trail passes beneath all three of the natural bridges. Another point of interest is Horsecollar Ruin, which is located just a bit down canyon from Sipapu Bridge. Small pools of standing water are common much of the year. Reaching the canyon floor requires a descent of about one mile and 500 vertical feet from the canyon rim. What goes down must come up.

The mesa section of the trail is a little over two miles in length. It consists of rolling terrain through a nice PJ (pinyon and juniper) forest with intermittent slickrock fields. Exposure on the trail, both in the canyon and on the mesa, is quite reasonable for this part of the country: the trail mostly steers clear of major drop-offs, and accidental detours into the canyons that feed into White Canyon are quite easily avoided. Still, bear in mind that NBNM sits within a huge, isolated wildland and should not be treated too casually.

Given an elevation of 6,000 feet, morning temperatures are quite pleasant even during the peak of summer, but the arid air heats quickly and high temps of 100° or more are common during the peak of summer. An early start is strongly advised during the summer. Weather during the shoulder seasons is incredible. NBNM’s roughly 100,000 annual visitors are thickest between Memorial and Labor Day and cluster at the scenic overlooks and along the short trail segments near the natural bridges themselves. Winter can be an amazing time to visit, but keep in mind that even the desert gets very cold at this elevation.

Interactive Map (new window)

Playlist to/from Trailhead

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Las Vegas

Sunday, February 1st, 2009

By Stacy

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I take it as self-evident that trail runners, especially of the ultra variety, are eager iconoclasts, rarely as happy as when poking establishment pastimes in the eye. A marathon? On the road? Ha! Double the distance and treble the difficulty. Then we’ll talk.

Given this predisposition, I ask you: what could be more against-the-grain than an early morning trail run in lieu of, or in addition to, a 24-hour bender? Well, that’s exactly the kind of thing I hope to encourage with this trail runner’s guide to Las Vegas. You see, it turns out there are decent trail running escapes within eyeshot of the Strip. Check that, Vegas trail running escapes are better than decent. Much better.

My modest hope for this guide is that the next time you visit Sin City — whether for a convention, wedding, or unmitigated bachannalia — you might consider giving standard Las Vegas fare the brush-off, at least for an hour or two. If not for your mental and physical health, then just to tweak expectations.

Run: Redrock Canyon Grand Circle Loop

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Of the several good trail running venues in close proximity to town, it is pretty easy to choose a destination if you only have one chance to run off-road Vegas: Red Rock Canyon NCA. Located 17 miles from the Strip and about 5 from the edge of town, it is convenient.

Red Rock also happens to be spectacular, challenging, and offers plenty of routes to choose from. I recommend the Grand Circle Loop. The perfect run starts a little before dawn and follows the loop in a clockwise direction. This gives you a front row seat as the sunrise sets fire to the massive, streaked escarpment to the west and puts you in position to end your run with a woo-hoo romp down the steeper east side of the loop at the base of the Calico hills. It also gets you off the trails before the park becomes crowded with car-assisted mini-hikers.

The Grand Circle Loop does not hug the base of the escarpment. It may not seem like it, but this is mostly a good thing. The trails that follow the drainages “into” the escarpment — Lost Creek, Icebox, and Pine Creek — are great, but the connector between them is lousy with ostrich egg-size rocks that will test both your ankles and your patience. Take this into consideration as you (invariably) find yourself being drawn to the giant walls like a moth to a flame.

Distance: 11.7 miles
Total climbing: 2,400 feet
Map: Grand Circle Loop

Other

  • Free trail maps are available at the toll booth.
  • Using the toll booth parking lot as your trailhead allows you to skirt the $5/car entry fee, which is collected if you can’t produce an acceptable interagency park pass. The Grand Circle Loop and several other routes work from here.
  • The sun comes up early in Las Vegas. In the summer, it gets hot soon thereafter. Very soon.
  • It’s hard to beat a crystal clear winter morning at Red Rock, especially right after a snow storm.
  • Runner Up: over 100 miles of additional singletrack lies just outside the “scenic drive” portion of Red Rock in the Blue Diamond/Cottonwood Valley area. The views are generally less spectacular and the trails are multi-use, so you have to be better at sharing. But still a very high quality trail network.
  • Even More: Boulder City/Lake Mead, Mount Charleston, and the Valley of Fire.

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Rest & Recover (Or Not)

If you want to experience both air-conditioned, anti-reality Vegas and the severe truth of the desert outside, the Red Rock Hyphenate (Hotel-Casino-Spa) is the place to stay. Whether it should have been built at all was a matter of some local controversy, given the impact of a project of its scale. Which, I suppose, is saying something. We are talking about Las Vegas, after all. But it was built, and Vegas is the better for it, I think.

From my point of view, the Red Rock has two major advantages. One is its location at the western edge of town 10 minutes from the Red Rock Canyon Visitors Center. Being this far away from the Strip has a way of psychologically untethering you from your expectations of what Vegas “should be” and makes it a snap to get away to the prime trails of Red Rock Canyon, Blue Diamond, and Cottonwood Valley.

Red Rock’s second major advantage is the relative understatement of its design. Underscore relative. To be a member in good standing of the Vegas hospitality-gaming industrial complex, it is apparently mandatory to house on one premises not just a hotel and casino, but also a mini convention center and mall, a spa, an alphabet soup of restaurants, a theatre, a bowling alley, and much, much more. As the line goes, you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. If you can put all that aside, you will likely find appealing the dry stack sandstone masonry and contemporary design flourishes. At least it isn’t someone’s baroque nightmare of another geographic place come to life.

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Red Rock Casino Resort Spa
11011 West Charleston
Las Vegas, NV  89135
(866) 767-7773

Refuel

One option is to wander into one of the 10, yes 10, full-service restaurants or several additional fast-casual dining alternatives located inside the Red Rock. Another is to head for the Strip and open your wallet wide for the privilege of partaking of the celebrity offerings found there. You could do worse than either option, I suppose. But, if you’re in the mood for something a bit more lo-fi, you might consider the following post-run dining alternatives.

Old-School Breakfast Joint: The Original Pancake House

Granted, it isn’t native to Las Vegas and it’s a chain. But OPH stores rarely feel cookie-cutter, and the West Charleston location in Vegas definitely doesn’t. Their standard pancake menu gaps the competition. Their Apple Pancake, Dutch Baby, and baked omelettes widen it.

Really Old-School Breakfast Joint: Omelet House

About a mile down the road from the West Charleston OPH is another breakfast option. This one a died-in-the-wool native of Vegas. A little dive-y. Maybe more than a little. I’ve never tried anything but their omelettes. (Duh, it’s the Omelet House.) I personally favor the Petunia Pig and I’m not ashamed to admit it. Tip: when you’re given a choice of bread to accompany your eggs, choose the the pumpkin nut. Trust.

Meal of Shame: Kilroy’s (2 locations)

Really good bar food. Maybe because it’s a bar. You can sit with the smokers and play a slot machine on one side of the house. Or sit in the relatively pleasant dining room on the other. Your choice. The rationale here is that replacing the 2,000 calories you just burned running all over Red Rock Canyon shouldn’t be work.

Race

World of Hurt 50k & 25k

A small, new event held in October at the Bootleg Canyon mountain bike park in Boulder City. A good time of year to visit the desert.

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Flagstaff (Kachina Trail)

Monday, December 1st, 2008

By Stacy

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Where the high desert meets the mountains in the Coconino National Forest. Close to Flagstaff. Far from easy.

En Route

By early November, shorter days and cooler mornings begin to push my runs from mountain trails to the desert. That’s not an entirely bad thing, since it saves a bit of time driving to trailheads and I love desert running anyway. Still, it is hard to not miss alpine mountain running during the snowy months.

Such was my state of mind when trying to decide where to head for this month’s feature trail. I knew I wanted to get in a gulp of mountain running before winter. Since Lisa, my wife, and Joia, our golden retriever, were coming along, I also wanted the destination to offer great off-run amenities and a casual, dog-friendly vibe. Ideally, within 300 miles or so of home. With those objectives established, I consulted the atlas and our destination became immediately obvious: Flagstaff.

Flagstaff is hip, but not painfully so. Smart, outdoorsy and friendly. A college town, a regional hub of industry and health care, and a point of departure for a really great, really big backcountry. That’s Flag.

The abundance of outdoor endurance athletes who call Flagstaff home also made reconnaissance a snap. After doing a little research, I shot an email to Neil Weintraub at NATRA (Northern Arizona Trail Runners Association) to narrow down the options. He was super helpful in recommending a couple of especially good trails among the many available around Flagstaff and invited me to join their Saturday morning group run.

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On the Trail

We spent Saturday doing a bit more trail reconnaissance and kicking around town. Sunday was overcast, a little hazy, chilly, and windy. Good running weather.

After driving to the trailhead and gearing up, I started up the Weatherford Trail. This connector to the Kachina Trail is the rugged two-track residue of an old road to the top of the San Francisco peaks. Within just a few minutes I was huffing and puffing the thin air as I made the steady climb from an altitude of about 8,250 feet to 9,000 over the course of about a mile and half.

At that point, I came to an intersection. Following directions meant a quick downhill/cross-slope romp until I saw another sign pointing me toward gorgeous singletrack: the Kachina Trail.

For about the next hour, I meandered up and down along the southern shoulder of the mountain, through dark groves of coniferous trees and the white-out of aspens, and across grassy meadows with wide views of the mountains above and Flagstaff below. Eventually, I emerged from the forest at the parking lot of the Arizona Snow Bowl, where I paused for a minute before returning in the direction from which I had come.

With most of the day’s climbing and photo stops behind me, I picked up the pace considerably on the return trip and made it a half-hour quicker than the run out. From there it was a rush to make hotel checkout, followed by a stop at the Downtown Diner to refuel.

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Where is it in the World?

The Kachina Trail is located in the Coconino National Forest. Access is from the Schultz Tank Trailhead 8.75 miles north of Flagstaff. Directions to the trailhead from the downtown intersection of Highways 66 and 180:

  • North on Humphreys Street (HWY 180) for 3.25 miles
  • East (right) on Schultz Pass Road (FR 420) for 0.75 miles until pavement ends
  • Proceed on unpaved Schultz Pass Road 4.75 miles to Schultz Tank TH

The unpaved portion of Schultz Pass Road is a bit rough, but passable in good weather for typical passenger cars.

Alternative access is from the south end of the Arizona Snow Bowl parking lot. From the Snow Bowl TH, you can run the same route I did in reverse, run just the Kachina Trail as a 9-10 mile out-and-back, or run 7.3 miles one-way with the aid of a shuttle. Most of the trail is in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness Area. There is an opportunity to self-register near the Snow Bowl TH, but no permit is required except during winter.

A number of other great routes can be accessed from the Schultz Tank and other nearby trailheads, including the trails that comprise NATRA’s annual Soustice Race, which is held each October.

Area Map (new window)

Local Knowledge: Northern Arizona Trail Runners Assocation

One of the better trail-specific clubs I’ve come across. Their site has a wealth of additional information, including a schedule of group runs.

Degree of Difficulty

  • Technical: Moderate-to-Hard
  • Physical: Hard
  • Total Distance: 14.6 miles
  • Total Ascent: 4,675
  • Total Descent: 4,675

What to Expect

Access to the Kachina Trail from Schultz Tank TH is by way of a section of the Weatherford Trail. The Weatherford connector is 100% rocky, rutted, double-track. From the trailhead, it is 1.7 miles and 850 vertical feet to the intersection taking you to the Kachina Trail proper. Tired legs and sketchy terrain are a recipe for a day-wrecking faceplant or twisted ankle on the return trip through this section, so be careful.

Once connected to the Kachina Trail, you will enjoy 100% singletrack with constant grade changes. There are numerous highly technical rock gardens to negotiate, which are a little taxing, but fun. Virtually the entire Kachina trail is at an altitude above 9,000 feet with a high of about 9,350. Unless you are a local or visiting from, say, Colorado, you will feel the altitude. Cool temps are the norm at this elevation year round, although an early start would be wise during the summer. This is a 3-season trail, although it enjoys a bit longer dry season due to its southern exposure.

Playlist to/from Trailhead

The National (Alligator)
Wolf Parade (Apologies to the Queen Mary)

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