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Acadia National Park

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Maine is one of those places that remind you that life really isn’t that difficult. That it is full of beauty, adventure, and miles and miles of runnable trails. It is, after all, “the way life should be.” So it’s fitting that it is home to one of the most visually stimulating and trail-packed national parks that I’ve witnessed to date: Acadia. It’s a one stop shop for anyone looking for a lot of bang for your adventuresome buck.

The one-way Park Loop Road guides you easily around Mount Desert Island, with constant sweeping views of your surroundings as you climb higher up. Pull over, hike down to the cliff edge and take it in. If you’re daring, blaze your own trail down the rock faces and take in a view few others get. But, be careful!

There is so much to see and experience, you need much more than a day to do it, but if you’ve only got a few hours’ time, then I highly recommend stopping at the ranger’s office at the park entrance to map out your plan of attack. I spoke with a very informative ranger and she helped me pick out a system of trails that would give me the best views, the most challenge, and some good running.

Both times I’ve been to Acadia, I wanted to climb the Precipice Trail on Champlain Mountain (above), and both times it has been closed due to the returning of the endangered peregrine falcons (they nest along the trail). So if you’re there late spring through mid-August, be aware that you’ll likely miss out on this very popular and difficult climbing experience (1,000 feet of vertical up the east face of Champlain, glorious!).

The Run

I picked The Beehive to start so that I could get in some good climbing, hook up with the Gorham Mountain Trail that would then spill me out onto the Ocean Path where I could do some fast miles to end my adventure.

The entrance to the Beehive Trail is between the Entrance Fee Station on the Park Loop Road and Sand Beach, on the eastern shore of Mount Desert Island. The Beehive is rated as “strenuous” due to its plethora of steep grades, steady climbing, and the need for iron rungs on exposed ledges. While the Beehive falls just short of a mile (.8 to be precise), it climbs almost straight up 520 feet, so it’s a good warm-up.

Afraid of heights? This may not be the trail for you. I could feel vertigo creeping up at more than a few points during my climb. The trail is, more or less, carved into the side of The Beehive. What a rush! The rewards you get at various outcroppings along the way are more than enough to make up for the slight dizziness, though.

Descending down the backside of The Beehive you need to be careful and mindful of your footing as there are lots and lots of very large rocks (very boulder field-esque). Despite that, I was able to start doing some running finally.

I wasn’t sure where I was going, but I knew I could retrace my steps if needed (though I wasn’t too keen on the idea of going back down some of those rock faces!). Eventually I came to a fork, where I could venture on down to the Bowl or continue onward to the Gorham Mountain Trailhead (525 ft.).

Mmmm, trail. Blue blazes are your friend out here, so keep them in view; you may be surprised how easy it is to miss these things, and how faded and un-blue many of the blazes are from wear and tear. After standing in place, spinning around, and then squinting hoping to see something blue, I finally saw a faint strip of blue on a birch. The trail was very unclear here and well hidden by dead leaves and shrubs of sorts. A few wet spots along the way, and eventually I made it to the trailhead, and more climbing! You are taken along and through a stream going up the trail, so if it’s been a rainy season, your feet will get wet. This is still pretty steep, but incredibly scenic and a fast climb.

Gorham Mountain’s so-called false summit. Hang out and enjoy the views you are given here, it’s not too shabby: Otter Cliff, Otter Point, Baker Island, and the Cranberry Islands are all in clear view here. As you continue onward, the cairns will guide you along. These were better indicators of the trail than were the fading blue blazes. It’s a nice flat rock surface up here and perfect for picnicking, but is even better for running. Now you can let loose. Getting to the actual summit is fast from here and is marked by a wooden post at the highest point of the mountain. Only a few other hikers were up there, so it was very peaceful and the almost unreal blue of the sky and the sun lent itself to even more fantastic views. Make sure you have a camera with you, and maybe extra memory cards, too!

After I got my fair share of the view, I began the descent down the backside of Gorham Mountain, heading for the Ocean Path. Lots of big, smooth boulders along the way, and crevices you don’t want your foot getting stuck in.

I still managed a pretty good run here, and was excited to make it to the Park Loop Road. Crossing the Road, I hooked up with the Ocean Path.

It is 3 miles from Otter Cliff to Sand Beach. Heading north it is a smooth, slightly descending, crushed limestone trail. This is where the fast running is. Make sure to pull off the trail and hike down to Thunder Hole. If the tide is just right, you get the proper Thunder Hole experience, and maybe even a mid-run cool down when the waves splash up!

Making it back to Sand Beach parking lot, I rounded out my run by continuing down to the Beach and jumping into the Ocean.

411

Degree of Difficulty

Technical: Moderate to Difficult on Beehive and Gorham Mountain, Easy on Ocean Path
Physical: Moderate to Difficult on Beehive and Gorham Mountain, Easy on Ocean Path
Total Distance: 5.6 miles
Total Ascent: 1,045
Total Descent: 1,045

The Basics

While Acadia is not the most easily accessible National Park, the three hour drive up to Mount Desert Island from Portland is always worth it. Bring plenty of water, food, a camera and your long-run legs. You’re going to need them!

May through August, the sun is burnin’, burnin’, burnin’ so dress accordingly. In the fall, the breezes off the Atlantic can cut through to the bone. If you are planning a visit from out of town, I find flying into Manchester, NH to be the most convenient, and then driving up to Acadia via 95 then U.S. 1A.

Of course, any trip to Maine begs for a stay in Portland. But if you’re looking for something a little more quaint that can cater to the most touristy of tourists, plan to bunk up in Bar Harbor, Maine, the veritable gateway to Acadia. It’s got everything you need, from whoopee cushions to mountain outfitters, salt water taffy to fresh caught crab, cheap hotels to eclectic bed & breakfasts. The fact that it’s a stone’s throw from the park entrance is just an added bonus.

Google Map

Other Tips

Be sure to bring water and some form of calories with you on this run. Although this route isn’t especially long, it is deceptively hard, and will probably take much longer to complete than you might anticipate. Plus, who wants to rush through this kind of outing?

Sand Beach has water fountains, plenty of parking, bathrooms, and changing rooms, so it is a very convenient place to start and finish the day. But, if you’ve got some steam left, head on up the Park Loop Road to Jordan Pond and check out the 3.3 mile Jordan Pond Shore Trail. The Jordan Pond House is known for its popovers and blueberry jam…a perfect post-run nosh.  The dining area has fantastic views of Jordan Pond and the Bubble Mountains (of course, the locals have a different name for the mountains due to their unique…shape).

I should also mention that Acadia is swarming with crushed stone carriage roads (57 miles of them!) that are perfect for flat and fast running, and a great way to explore the Park. The possibilities are endless!

Bar Harbor Nosh

Since I was so parched, and absolutely starving after my run/hike, I headed into Bar Harbor to eat somewhere new.  I landed at Cottage Street Bakery & Deli, at 59 Cottage Street (two blocks west of Main Street), and treated myself to a fresh baked muffin and a huge salad.  It’s a really sweet little spot; the indoor portion is very homey and cozy feeling, and you can smell all the deliciousness wafting out from the kitchen (they bake all their own stuff).  The owner greeted me when I walked in, which I just love.  It was still pretty nice out, so I sat outside on the covered patio to enjoy my lunch and people watch.

Afterwards, I decided I had to have some ice cream, so I moseyed over to Mount Desert Island Ice Cream at 7 Firefly Lane (one block west of Main Street), to try out their homemade ice cream.  It’s a good thing online ordering of their specialty ice cream will be available soon…it was out of this world!  I couldn’t resist.

By Paige

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